The biggest change is that I have now decided to ditch the Arduino and base the control box off a Raspberry Pi. As a result this hiatus seemed like the perfect opportunity to rethink the core technologies of the project. It was always my intention to not simply clone the commercially available systems, but to better them where I see a feature that is clunky or limited. That and the hellishly cramped nature of my project box (which was designed to sit neatly under the boiling vessel) really put the brakes on mentally for me – I just wasn’t super motivated to push forward.Īlthough I may have been silent on this one, I have been working on the next iteration of the project for the last couple of months. But, although the controller box was mostly complete, I ran into problems when I fried my Arduino. LowBrau was meant to be a low cost single-vessel automated step mash and boiling system. It’s been 4 months since I last wrote about my automated brewing project. I also recommend getting a friend to hold the regulator and be ready to catch it should the jig snap to stop it all crashing to the floor. The thread on the inlet stem is right-hand (yay!) so apply controlled gradual anticlockwise pressure until the thread-lock loosens. I used a 1m length of cast iron gas pipe. Grab the appropriate sized socket (metric) and you’ll need a long length of pipe to turn the spanner into a large breaker-bar. You will also need to pry off the nylon washer that sits on the end that seals with the cylinder. You will also need to cut a notch so that the captive nut of the existing inlet stem can drop down exposing the hexagonal end of the stem. The low pressure dial and outlet treads are held in place by coat hanger wire that is twisted tight on the back side. Grab a sturdy off-cut of wood, drill a hole in it so that the regulator can sit flush against the surface. You really have to build a jig like I have below. They are not easy to get off and due to the limited purchase on the body of the reg you have to be very careful not to damage dials, etc. The first thing to note is that all the fittings are sealed with thread-lock and assembled by sumo wrestlers wielding spanners. So I thought I would document my findings here. Having emailed Micromatic about this I can say that, in my experience, as a company you should not expect any sort of reply – I certainly didn’t get one. I was really hoping that left-hand threads wouldn’t be applicable to the PremiumPlus, otherwise my options would be down to a custom fabrication or buy yet another regulator from different manufacturer. This would be a massive problem because all commercially available inlet stems I’ve seen are for right-hand threads (left-hand threads seem to be a Micromatic idiosyncrasy). Older model Micromatic regs use right-hand threads on the low pressure side and left-hand threads on the high pressure side. This model comes standard with a Type 30 connector so I need to swap out the inlet stem with one compatible with Type 50. The original model that I bought is no longer locally available and the PremiumPlus model has taken its place. I bought another Micromatic regulator to go with the new cylinder. The new blend I will be using has a Type 50 connection.
![guitar rig 5 rocksmith cable guitar rig 5 rocksmith cable](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/OAYAAOSwqNVf-K-t/s-l300.jpg)
Standard CO2 comes in a cylinder with a Type 30 connection. In Australia we have a couple of different cylinder threads. As a result I need to add another gas cylinder to the setup – a 30/70 blend of CO2 to nitrogen. I’m looking to add a nitrogen stout tap to the keezer.